Smardale, A Hidden World

Smardale Viaduct - Nikon 1 J2

The Smardale Viaduct, that lies disused in rural Northern England, is first and foremost a testimony to the ability and ambition of British engineering and workmanship. Originally built to accommodate locomotive transport, which was destined for the local quarry, this uniquely enclosed valley, has since creative a naturally diverse environment which now sustains a vast array of life. As a keen photographer I tried to capture as much of the diversity as was possible, focusing mostly on the wildlife above the flora and fauna as this is my preferred field, however even here there was such a large scope of life from mammals, to birds and insects. Overall I would thoroughly recommend this valley to any keen nature enthusiast on a fine day - flat walking, stunning views and even a complimentary nudist swimming in the river (short range lens recommended to avoid unwanted intrusion into photographs though!) However, I hope you enjoy this brief diary, of what will be mostly photographs, detailing my time spent in this area. Please note this was my first and only visit in my life so far, and look how much I saw in one go!

Hiding in the greenery - Nikon D7000

 Upon walking just a few meters from the designated parking area down the old railway track, a rustling in the trees was heard and a magical sight appeared. Leaping, bounding and squeaking through the trees were a host of tiny little red squirrels, an unfortunately rare delight in Britain these days. However here, they seem to be in abundance, thriving in the greenwood that lines the sides of the old railway tracks. Unfortunately these little creatures were, as ever, elusive to the camera lens, yet a few shots were successful and the two pictured here were some particular favourites of mine. The first detailing the vivid colour of our native squirrel, its rich red coat standing out obscurely against the leafy green backdrop that it calls home. (Not the best camouflage really yet with their speed and agility this is of little consequence to them) The second photograph shows their stunning and instantly recognisable profile, silhouetted against the bright sky between I was lucky to capture this one traversing its rooftop walkway over head. These delightful little mammals, of which there was a whole family, would have kept me entertained for hours no doubt, however there was much more still to be seen, and so I continued on my path whilst these little squirrels ventured off on their own, no doubt they moved a lot faster than I.

Silhouette - Nikon D7000

Wood Warbler - Nikon D7000

 The next find, still on this same stretch of abandoned railway and still in the greenwood surrounding, was something I don't usually choose to photograph, because of their speed and evasive nature, yet I managed to capture (granted only this one out of twenty shots worked) a Wood Warbler, sitting chirping merrily in the bush right next to the path. This beautiful bird pulled such a magnificent pose for me on this branch that I could not resist the opportunity to capture his profile. I particularly like the vivid green of the foliage around him, contrasted with his yellow throat and beak (forgive my lack of knowledge on what that greenery is, I promise to start paying more attention to it in future.) This Warbler was just one of a whole host of songbirds filling this area, indeed they existed in the hundreds, all different species and tunes, the made quite a magnificent chorus communally and anyone who would but pause a moment would be lucky enough to see every single species that surrounded them I am sure. However, this was the one that fascinated me the most because he was so keen to parade for the camera and so I felt the need to oblige his antics. 

Crane Fly - Nikon D7000

One of my favourite insects, perhaps because of how often it is overlooked for its commonness, is the Crane Fly. Indeed, although I am sure I used to be terrified of these thinking they were some kind of flying spider, after spending a year living in a house which due to its rural location attracted these, I came to find them quite fascinating and strangely beautiful. Perhaps I pity them, they usually get forgotten in favour of the visually appealing insects around them yet they carry on with life, unaffected by their lack of popularity. This is why I have chosen to include this little bug here, because we need to remember that in the biological make-up of an ecosystem, all animals are equally important, not just the pretty ones. However, to contradict my own point I did them immediately discover the stunning Scorpion Fly on a plant a few centimetres to the left and, the Crane Fly having already had its photo taken at least 15 times, this new insect took my attention away. The Scorpion Fly is rather aptly named, because of its spiked curly tail (it looks like a Scorpion's tail, who would have thought) but this is not the beauty of this insect, instead, the detail on its lace like wings, speckled with panes of black in the otherwise clear windows between veins, they lie gently on top of the colourful gloss body, a bold cream with red bands that glistens amongst the undergrowth. These little insects fly well too, gliding quickly from stem to stem they can be found in most meadows and undergrowths and are immediately recognisable - just another insect in the diverse Smardale. 

This concludes the beginning of this adventure along the old Smardale railway, at this point I reached the Viaduct itself and the following instalment will deal with the journey from there onwards, however up to this point, the magnitude of wildlife in this area has already unveiled itself with much more still to come!

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The off season...

Lurking in the undergrowth - Nikon D3000

As a student I rarely get the time to go out and about with my camera as a degree is a full time job and public transport rarely goes anywhere extraordinary and so when I was presented with a few weeks at home over the Christmas holidays I was excited to get back out with my camera and explore the world outside. Winter is a time of year when many of us indeed would prefer to be wrapped up inside with our fires blazing, blankets draped and a hot cup of chocolate in your hands however not me. I will not lie, indeed I love lounging around and enjoying relaxation at home however so rare is the chance to get out with a camera these days that I could not wait. Many people ask me what there is to photograph in this cold, dark and bleak season but my answer is quite simply, "just as much as any other time of year, it depends what you want to photograph." Personally I love the 'grey' seasons as they bring with them a new kind of wonder which is hidden in a world below your feet, a magical world of fairy houses and obscure creations which are not native to planet Earth surely - fungi. 

Nikon D3000

Although I openly admit that my knowledge of the fungal varieties is less than proficient I cannot say that I enjoy photographing them any less than I do insects, in fact the non mobile subject is quite a blessing and it allows for some fantastic shots of depth and detail. Indeed the intricacy and irregularity of mushrooms and toadstools is one of the things that I find most alluring and attractive about them as macro photography is without a doubt my favourite kind of photography as it allows you a closeness to the topic that you cannot always see or appreciate with the naked eye. Again I implore that when you do go out and about look where you tread, watch the trees, look under the leaves, because these beautiful natural creations lurk so silently and so peacefully that you might otherwise never even notice their existence.

They come in all sizes - Nikon D3000

Fungi to me speak of fairy tales. Fact. If you are wondering what I am talking about then go to a book shop and read an Enid Blyton story or Alice's Adventures in Wonderland before you see the inclusion of mushroom within imaginative children's literature, either as houses or as sources of magic. Although I am certainly not inferring that you go out searching for one of them to eat you may go out searching for them and think of magic and wonder and what exactly you could do with them as artistic materials. Personally I like to capture their abstract forms in as much clarity as the camera will allow because I think aesthetically they are stunning and so visually pleasing that nothing else needs doing to them however you can use your imagination and develop them into so much more than mundane features of the woodland undergrowth. 

And you can find them everywhere - Nikon 1 J2

Fungi are also exceptionally fun to go hunting for as you quite simply have to get hands on. Indeed there is nothing more entertaining than observing your father head down in some undergrowth 100 metres away with his camera nose to nose with a fungi and a pine tree spiking his head. Safe to say that this also happens to me although less frequently on account of my smaller size, the trees tend to miss my head! However fungi hunting is a truly magnificent experience and the results are phenomenally rewarding, you never quite know which species you will find, which shape it will be, it could even be a new species altogether given the nature of fungi! Likewise Fungi present a rare opportunity to move yourself from the world beneath your feet to the world above your head as they quite literally possess an inexplicable ability to cling and grow and thrive in any environment no matter how bizarre or unlikely. To find these natural delights you need to pause and consider what you are doing for a moment, look for locations off the beaten track, look for dark groves and damp mossy areas and you are probably in luck! 

Nikon 1 J2

Although earlier stating that these were probably easier to take a photograph of than the insects previously considered in this series that is not to say that they are any easier to photograph overall as arguably a good fungi is harder to find than a good insect as their immobility means that they are hidden until you discover them as opposed to them flying at your head. If they are flying at your head I recommend you take up a new hobby as clearly nature does not like you. That or your dog is scratching at the floor like dogs do, in which case you have no hope of photographing anything. Overall fungi are a rare exception to the world of nature, there is nothing at all conventional about them yet they inspire so much, so go and buy an index of them (as you can tell I didn't) find out where to spot them and go and return to your childhood in the dirt and undergrowth of the forest! Alternatively just take the camera, or your eyes, and go and have a look, because the world is our there waiting, it will not come to you, so you must go to it! 

Journeying to New Lands...

Moving on all of about 7 miles from my previous location of Fen Bog, I now want to explore with you the beautiful and picturesque location that is Goathland. More famous for its T.V. appearances than anything else you wouldn't necessarily expect it to be a wildlife haven. But that would be where most people are wrong. If you meander from the main path from the town to the railway station, a steam railway of course the same that runs through Fen Bog, and you ascend ever so slightly onto the Moors which surround the village you encounter an entirely new world rarely approached by humans other than farmers. This "new world" is more often than not admired from cars parked up in lay-bys, or from the train which thunders through the valley bottom but really you need to be hands on about this tactile and interactive environment.

Water on the Moors

When it comes to the Moors as an environment, it is like nothing else you have ever encountered. It is unique in every sense of the word and you need to treat it like it is, move through it with stealth and delicacy and most importantly tune your eyes and ears into every movement around you, every ripple of water, every gentle sway of every piece of heather. The Moors, for me personally, is so versatile. Its vast variation in terms of habitat makes it an ideal place for all manner of creature, large or small, mammal or insect. Obviously as I am exploring the "wilderness" at my feet in this series of blogs I shall be focusing on the smaller encounters, which are nevertheless, beautiful. The are I have chosen to focus on in particular is a microcosm of the wonder of the Moors as a whole. A small pond area, with crags on the hill side, water, reeds, heather, ferns, shrubs, grazed land. Everything. So now I will guide you through this magical environment, one I grew up in, step by step.

Emerald Damsel Fly 

To begin with therefore, a time old favourite of both my father and myself, the Damsel fly. A creature so stunning in vibrant colour you would think that it was hard to miss it however it's tiny frame and delicate flight make it quite the evasive creature, my best advice is pick one spot, sit, and wait. Sometimes once discovered these beautiful creatures as so docile that you can pick them right up and get them on your fingertips, other times they spread their beautiful bubbled wings and drift away on the next breeze. The most likely variety, because there are, despite first appearances, many different species of this animal, is the common blue. One of my favourite insects ever I think, I always grew up assuming they were the same as Dragon Fly's, a common misconception between the two species. However in the last two years my father and myself have been on a wonderful learning curve using my favourite resource of books (I am an English student after all) and a process of self discovery. Going out there, photographing everything we see, then hours of deliberating what exactly we have seen later when it's too cold, dark or damp to stay out any more.

Note the stunning metallic gleam

So why do I love this insect more than any other? I really couldn't tell you apart from I think it is beautiful, a truly magnificent feat of nature to condense such intricate perfection into one tiny little body. Far more stunning than a butterfly, especially the glowing eyes which gleam like freshly dropped dew on a morning leaf, or the wings so thin and flimsy they look like a sweet wrapper yet durable enough to contend with the harshness of the Moors which it has chosen as its home. The body of this wonder should not be overlooked either in my opinion, gleaming like a fresh cut gem or liquid metal, compare this to the matte tones of say a common skipper and you can see immediately why this, the Damsel fly, may appeal to the more extravagant amongst us.

It is worth remembering at this point the environment I was exploring when I took these photographs as this can greatly affect they types of insects which you are likely to encounter on your travels. This area, marshy, boggy, damp and full of reeds is the ideal habitat for insects from the Dragon Fly family such as the Damsel Fly, Crane Fly and Scorpion Fly. Therefore whilst these animals are not usually at foot level whilst active, when resting they are at floor level and before they emerge from the water they are in fact under floor level.

Common Darter

To continue on then from my almost random interlude about habitat, although it is something of paramount importance in this bug hunting business, I will now examine the discovery of the Dragon Fly and why I personally think that it carries with it a sort of unexpected vulgarity which the childish descriptions do not carry with them. Like with the Damsel Flies it is not until investigating the Dragon Fly a bit further that you begin to discover it in fact is sub divided into many differing species. On the left you can see a Common Darter which, as the name would suggest, is pretty common. However the size of the thing amazed me at first, from a glance, flying rapidly and casting a shadow on the floor you would be forgiven for mistaking it with a small bird! They are in fact large, bulky animals, and this is where the vulgarity begins. Aside from this they make a raucous noise, far more than a gentle hum or buzz as most other winged creatures make, these large bodies tend to thump as their wings beat the air, leaving a trail of noise just like a jet as it glides through the sky. 

A settled Darter

No where near as dainty as their cousins the Damsel Flies, these creatures are far more durable in terms of weather - we found some on a summit peak near Ben Nevis over the summer! But be under no illusions, their size does not increase your chances of actually finding and photographing one of these creatures. Faster than a bullet and about the same shape as well you will need a keen pair of eyes and a lot of patience to first of all locate one and then allow it to settle before you can even chance the approach! From a distance the Common Darter is, like cartoons depict, a thing of beauty and wonder, almost cute, but approach it and descend to its macro world and you will quickly discover it boasts a slimy exterior, not gleaming and gem-like like a Damsel Fly, but instead of a much less attractive colouration and far uglier and more prominent features such as bulging eyes. However its wings are indeed things of beauty and to behold their delicacy is truly a treat for any eyes, young or old, and you can suddenly see why they inspire positivity despite their mostly negative attributes.

So in this brief guide to the wonders that are to be found around one small tarn near Goathland on the Moors, you can hopefully again see reinforced the diversity of animals available to be seen and learned about and appreciated in such a tiny area, and begin to understand that if you move your feet and look further afield more wonders await you...

Starting at the bottom...

Starting at the bottom...

So me and my dad have always been outside together, walking, exploring, whatever we do, it's outside. The past couple of years my dad has really gotten into the same hobby as me, photography, and so it has been a really great way to go out there and carry on my childhood even though I have now grown up and "flown the nest" to be cliché. On a summer day, because lets be honest this year we have had a fantastic summer! Nothing has been better than picking up a camera and a drink and vanishing off to the Moors and Vales that surround where I live. This landscape is alive, magical and unashamedly English in character - rolling hills, gentle brooks trickling through sunken river beds surrounded by forest of green. Yes I know it all sounds a bit Tolkien in description but it is the (York)"Shire" after all! But anyway to the point, this year I really learnt the difference between those really basic butterflies and spiders which I mentioned in my last post, with the use of a wonderful camera equipped with a superb Sigma 70-300mm macro lens, suddenly a whole world of hidden detail became obvious to me. 

Now initially you can't see what you are looking for, you could easily spend hours assuming that the countryside if full of wildlife therefore you must see something  - oh how wrong this is! Nature is very good, as I have found on many occasions, at hiding from the big bad humans. I noticed this best a few weeks ago when I stopped to photograph a butterfly in a small location known as Fen Bog, only to realise that there had been an Adder curled up about 30cm from my shoe for the last 3minutes. Yes of course it slithered away before I could take get a shot, sods law and all that! This again reiterates the vital message that I am hoping to convey that its not your skill as a photographer or your enthusiast as a connoisseur of all things wildlife, its your ability to observe and seeing as most British wildlife is pretty small then you need to observe your feet. (or if you don't have very nice shoes on maybe a meter or so in front of your feet)

So seeing as I have mentioned Fen Bog already, I think that I will begin this journey there. Geographically Fen Bog is situated in the heart of the Yorkshire Moors, the Steam Railway thunders through it and sheep graze around it, but the bog itself is deep, damp and dense. This does not mean that it can't provide some of the most beautiful wildlife because for such a small area such a large range of habitats are provided. So walking down into the bottom of the valley where the bog is actually, for me, provides a greater variety of wildlife and enjoyment. I still remember the day that day scooted off down the hill in search of an elusive "Six Spotted Burnet Moth". I found one about a meter away from the car, purely by accident I might add, no walking down any hills required. Once again though this taught me that you need to observe what is around you first and then move on after. These creatures, for some reason have a beauty that other moths do not seem to share. I do not know if it is the colour, the rich velvety black that cloaks them, or their dazzling glossy red spots like little drops of gloss paint splattered on them (I truly hope it isn't) but they just stand out from the crowd. At the age of 7 or 8 I would probably have grouped these little dark, flying blobs with the likes of bees and flies and stayed well clear, now my more educated self can see them for what they truly are and I can see them. I think that is the most important thing about educating yourself about what is around you is that you can actually see it, if you don't know what it is you either a) don't spend long looking at it b) don't look for it in the first place or c) assume it is something else and forget it ever existed. If you have an idea of what you are looking for before you go, you are more likely to find it, otherwise you need to record everything and then look it up when you get back home again.

So moving on from the lovely Burnet Moth to another find at Fen Bog, I would like to introduce the "Scorpion Fly". Again another insect that once upon a time I would have grouped with hover flies or house flies and walked right on past. It is beautiful! Forgive its initial "hover fly" like appearance and its general ugliness and you can really start to appreciate its wonderful existence. Okay I get it, its not the most beautiful thing you have ever seen, especially not after that Burnet Moth, but this little 'fella' plays his part in the ecosystem too so we shouldn't discount him. I find the pleasure which I draw from nature comes in my desire to try and capture it at its most perfect with my camera, to document it exactly as I would see it, crisp, clear and sharp. Now as a photographer this presents a challenge because insects, such as out new friend the Scorpion Fly, tend to move pretty fast pretty quickly. The solution for me has been found through trial and error, I was never taught to use a camera and I still couldn't tell you off the top of my head what most of the functions do. I am also not a conformist, I would rather play and have the fun of experimenting than copy someone else's actions. So quite simply, I spun the little camera dial onto "sports mode" - not macro I hear you asking, well macro is great if what you are trying to shoot can't move, but because it has a slightly longer shutter speed to allow the light in for the detail, it blurs very easily if the thing moves. Sports mode retains the clarity and also allows the movement to be captured if you did frighten the life out of your insect and it ran away. I did for this shot have my Sigma 70-300mm lens on full extension and set that to macro, but if all this camera talk is bugging you (excuse the pun) then point and click, see what happens - usually the best way I find!

These are just two of hundreds of species that you could find in this one, reasonably sized wilderness. I recommend highly visiting designated nature reserves because they haven't been invaded by humans, or larger mammals, you can crawl around in the undergrowth, or walk if you prefer (you will see less if you do), and see hundreds and hundreds of different things you never even knew existed, just like I did. I used to love photographing landscapes, but there are only so many times you can shoot a mountain. I have yet to tire of the micro world under my feet, my eyes which are growing older by the day keep on seeing new life emerging from the undergrowth, so just be careful where you step, but I hope that you do step, and crawl, and walk and find out what is out there, under your feet. 

Naomi 

Beginning the exploration...

Okay so here goes nothing...

So I am new to this whole blogging business, but as a prospective future journalist I figured I should give it a go, so that I can start exploring some of the themes and ideas that I want to look at in my future career. I am currently at University studying English Literature, but here is the twist - I am mad about wildlife! Books are an interest but the great outdoors is my passion, really you're probably wondering why on Earth I am studying English, well it's really just a means of giving me the tools I need to fully exploit my passion and share it with others!

This first blog, my very first, is concerned with where I began as an amateur photographer aged 7 or 8 when I was bought my first "digital camera". At the time this was a 4 million megapixel fujufilm with very limited features but I snapped a magnificent "hairy" Caterpillar. Compare this to my current two cameras of choice, my beautiful Nikon 1 J2 or my ever impressive Nikon D3000 then you can see how far the digital age has advanced even in my short lifetime of 19 years. However, no matter what the camera you are using, I feel that this new click and delete digital age has allowed a huge expansion in the exploration of the natural world because now you can simply keep going until you get it right.

So aged 7 or 8 I was probably, being a huge tomboy, lurking around in some dirt or grass somewhere, encountering the world in a very tactile way. My parents always encouraged the outdoors and in hindsight I can see, aside from the excitement of the dirt, why. It is magical. As a child you see things which as an adult you do not, likewise as a child our perception of things is far more innocent. I am of the belief that we would not fear spiders if someone else had never said that they were scary. For this reason I think it is important that all of us at some point take a step back and sit on the floor and engage with the little things that make our world what it is! At 7 or 8 I knew only of butterflies, spiders and bugs, now aged 19, and having refused to let go of my childish inquisition I know of Common Blue Butterflies, Emerald damselflies, Hawker Dragonflies - all the same things but an increase in knowledge has allowed to me appreciate them all separately. 

Throughout this blog therefore I want to explore my return to childhood, using my new adult knowledge and my more advanced equipment, and try to capture the world at my feet which was once hand height. I live in the bountiful North Yorkshire, a location which can to a British citizen seem to be just another place in the UK however I urge everyone to explore the UK when they can! I have travelled abroad and think it is fantastic don't get me wrong, but I think it was the time spent in the very different foreign countries that made me truly appreciate what it is that we have here in the UK right on our doorsteps, right under our feet.

From now on I will be recording what it is that I find under my feet when I step out into the beautiful world around me...

Naomi